Buenos Aires

So with boxes finally away and paperwork sorted, and plenty of draining but wonderful goodbyes, it was onto the Heathrow Express (what a treat for my departure) headed for Buenos Aires.

A partied- out Bulli was there to meet me on a very dreary early morning. We had a quiet start to BA but once the jet lag and post-tour come down subsided we were off and running. We explored most neighbourhoods, and stayed in San Telmo, the fleamarket district. Really nice and lots of traces of old style Buenos Aires from the days when the tango was born out of the large but overfilled homes of immigrant families who filled the neighbourhood when the upper classes fled the yellow fever plague.

We visited the cemetery in Recoleta which is renown for its ornate chambers, I think Evita's is one of the best known tombs.

And speaking of Evita we got the deets on why she is so beloved in Argentina on our excellent walking tour. We got a rundown on Argentina's turbulent modern history and visited the union building which is like a 1950s time capsule. This incredibly dedicated and beautiful old man has created a museum to Evita and it was moving to hear him speak 60 years later about the impact she had on him and others (shows his impact and passion given I can't understand Spanish but could feel how important it was to him!)

Another highlight was visiting the brightly coloured La Caminita in The Boca neighbourhood. We also went to a game at the famous Bombonera to see Boca Juniors. Outside the stadium the atmosphere was expectant and a bit eerie, everyone is very orderly and you are searched before you go in. Inside there is an explosion of colour and fun and the singing is awesome. The most boring football game we have ever seen but the atmosphere did deliver.

We had a couple of famous Argentinian steaks, rare was the best way for us, and enjoyed malbecs and empanadas. Had a fun night out with some of Bulli's tour mates and visited Palermo on a Saturday when all the locals come out for shopping and coffees.

La Poesia was a favourite cafe - pages and pages of sandwiches and a lovely colonial 50s style feel. We also visited the famous cafe Tonino.

So Buenos Aires was not a big tick list of sights, more about people watching and soaking up the modern history and current way of life. It looks like a city that shone in the 50s and 60s and now is a little ragged around the edges as they've had other things to worry about, but beautiful in its way.

Little quirk - people sell all sorts of things on the metro! Socks, colouring books, street directories! They pop it on your lap, you like, you buy, you don't, you leave!